In his latest installment of “Ask Ottolenghi,” chef and food writer Yotam Ottolenghi answers one of the most common questions from home cooks: is there a specific type of tahini they should be using? The chef, known for his love of Middle Eastern flavors, emphasizes that while tahini might seem straightforward, its quality and flavor can vary greatly. Here’s what Ottolenghi suggests to get the best out of this versatile ingredient.
Quality Tahini Starts with Quality Sesame Seeds
Not all tahini is created equal, and Ottolenghi explains that the best tahini is made from 100% hulled, single-origin sesame seeds. Many top-quality tahinis use Ethiopian sesame seeds, particularly those from the Humera region, renowned for their nutty flavor and silky texture. Ethiopian sesame seeds are prized for their high oil content, giving the tahini a smooth, pourable consistency and a balanced, mildly sweet taste without the bitterness that lower-quality sesame seeds can impart.
Texture and Consistency: The Pour Test
When choosing a tahini, Ottolenghi suggests looking at the texture first. “Good tahini should be smooth and pourable, not stiff or overly thick,” he advises. Some tahini separates over time, so it’s normal to see some oil separation. However, Ottolenghi recommends avoiding any that are excessively hard to stir back together, as it can signal lower quality or added ingredients.
The Flavor Test: Nutty, Not Bitter
The chef encourages people to taste tahini before buying, whenever possible. Quality tahini has a deep, nutty flavor without the bitter or astringent notes that can come with inferior brands. “The best tahinis are those you could eat with a spoon,” Ottolenghi says, emphasizing that it should enhance rather than overpower dishes, from dressings to desserts.
Raw vs. Roasted Tahini
While raw tahini is the most common, roasted tahini is also available and can add a toasty depth to some recipes. Ottolenghi explains that raw tahini is ideal for many Middle Eastern dishes, like hummus and baba ganoush, where a pure sesame flavor is preferred. Roasted tahini, on the other hand, is perfect for dishes where a stronger, richer sesame flavor can shine, such as in certain sauces or marinades.
Finding and Storing Your Tahini
Ottolenghi recommends purchasing tahini from Middle Eastern or specialty stores, where quality brands are more likely to be stocked. Some of his favorites include Al Arz, Al Kanater, and Soom, known for their high quality and smooth consistency. Once opened, tahini should be stored in a cool, dark place, ideally in the fridge, to preserve its flavor and prevent it from going rancid.
Tahini Beyond the Savory: Get Creative
Ottolenghi is known for pushing tahini’s potential beyond traditional uses. “Tahini is wonderful in desserts,” he says, suggesting recipes like tahini brownies, tahini ice cream, or even tahini-swirled cheesecake. Its creamy texture and nutty richness can add depth to sweet dishes, while also introducing a savory balance that makes desserts more complex and satisfying.
Final Verdict: Quality Matters
For Ottolenghi, the answer is clear: a high-quality tahini can make all the difference, enhancing flavor and texture in both sweet and savory dishes. For those looking to elevate their cooking, finding a quality tahini brand is well worth the investment.